off road ...

Evolution of Tiger Dance

2011-10-29T11:17:00.003+05:30

Orissa's Bagh Nritya or Tiger Dance is an ancient folk performance. Actors smear their entire body with yellow varnish and black spots & stripes. They wear a tail made of cloth, a bell on one ankle and a fabulous set of hand-crafted ears.

"In the 17th century, under the reign the poet-king Upendra Bhanja in Ganjam, the 'bagh nritya' was an invocation rite performed to appease the tiger goddess”. Narayan Maharana, president of a government-aided organisation reviving the folk dances of Orissa, says: "The traditional animal and tiger dance has changed over the years".
Trees have disappeared and the forest cover has shrunk. "Tigers are (now) underthreat in their habitats because of an intense man-animal conflict. The tiger goddess, in whose honour the dance is performed, has also changed her message" Maharana said.
"The goddess now campaigns to save the tigers. She orders her worshipers to foster man-animal amity and protect the forest" the folk dancer said.

"Save the tigers,
the forests will live,
If you save the jungles,
then you will live,
When you will live,
the tiger-goddess (Durga-Maa) will live in your hearts".

Dhokra : Tribal Art of Odisha

2011-05-09T15:21:00.005+05:30

Dhokra metal-casting uses the lost-wax technique; one of the earliest and most advanced method of metal casting known to human civilization. This unbroken tradition coupled with the intrinsic starkness and vitality of the art form makes Dhokra coveted by collectors.

Techniques today employed in dentistry and industrial manufacture. Dhokra is comprised mostly of scrap metal, so it’s also eco-friendly!

Dhokra crafts people are settled over a vast tract in the mineral rich central Indian tribal belt (the regions of Odisha, Jharkhand, Chhatisgarh, and parts of Andhra Pradesh). The Dhokra motifs are inspired by indigenous folk culture. There is a primitive simplicity and imaginative use of design and pattern. Untutored in recognized institutions, the artistic talent of the craftsman is instinctively creative. Intuitive innovation evolved over thousands of years.

The preparatory wax work is done with meticulous skill from wires of bees - wax. It is then covered with a thick layer of clay keeping a hole on top. Molten metal is then poured into the mould replacing the wax layer. Once the cast is removed ornamental finishing touches are applied.

The socio-cultural links for Dhokra remains strong in Odisha. Rural brides receive a dowry of brass and bell metal home wares. Betel nut boxes and a round deep bowl for regional rice specialities, are daily essentials. Temple deities and associated ritual objects (such as bells & thalis) are made from brass or bell metal. The classical Odissi dancer adorn’s his/her ankles with tinkling bell metal anklets.

Promoting sustainable livelihoods through local craft

2011-05-02T11:23:00.005+05:30

As a member of The Green Circuit, Grass Routes participated in the Great Indian Travel Bazaar held in Jaipur earlier this month.

An association of dedicated responsible tourism specialists, The Green Circuit joins the best eco-trips in the Indian Subcontinent.

With a soft touch for all things hand crafted Grass Routes worked with local artisans in Orissa to create a painted poster on handloom cotton to decorate The Green Circuit stall. We also displayed our signature 100% organic locally sourced and crafted bookmarks.

Small but significant ways Grass Routes is promoting local sustainable livelihoods.

Festive Times in Orissa

2011-01-06T10:44:00.015+05:30

As we embark on another year, January shapes up as the season of cultural festivities in Orissa’s capital, Bhubaneswar. Here’s a list of upcoming festival.

Kalinga Mahostav : 10 & 11 January 2011

Beginning with the Kalinga Mahostav atop the historic Dhauli hills, we celebrate the victory of peace over war. In essence, the Kalinga Mahotsav pays tribute to the Buddhist philosophy embraced by the great emperor Ashoka; of winning peoples hearts by ethical conduct rather than conquering by force. In this spirit, martial dances from Orissa, the South and North East of India are showcased.

Mukteshwar Dance Festival: 14, 15 & 16 January 2011

Mukteshwar Dance Festival is staged at in the courtyard of one of Bhubaneswar’s most important and well-preserved temples. The 10^th century landmark introduced new sculptural iconography and architectural balance. Eminent exponents of Odissi dance enliven the temple courtyard with their magical performances. A truly fitting ambience to enjoy Indian classical dance!

Rajarani Music Festival: 18, 19 & 20

Against the backdrop of the Rajarani Temple in Bhubaneswar the musical evenings of this festival are resplendent with performances by eminent instrumentalists and vocalists of India.

January is certainly a good time to visit Orissa capital city Bhubaneswar and enjoy the local cultural festivities.

For more information feel free to contact Grass Routes : info@grassroutesjourneys.com

Grass Routes donates Ghungaroos

2010-11-24T22:52:00.011+05:30

Above the roar of the Ambassador careering over a country road in Orissa, the gungaroos tinkled with every hump bump and swerve. We were on our way to a ‘sister’ village of the Gotipua troupe Grass Routes regularly supports.

Gotipua is a traditional dance form originating in Orissa and precedes the classical ‘Odissi’ dance. Many maestros of Odissi began their early training in Gotipua.

Meaning ‘only son’; Gotipua is danced by young boys dedicated to specific temples. Rigorous physical training under the guidance of a Guru (maestro) prepares them for ritual temple dances performed at festive occasions.

However no dance performance would be complete without the jingle jangle of brass bell anklets. This was our musical soundtrack as we ventured further into the rice bowl of Orissa; the ghungaroos jangling on dashboard.

The villagers eagerly awaited our arrival and ushered us into the shade of coconut palms facing the open courtyard of their temple. After presenting our donation we watched the troupe tying the ghungaroos to their ankles in squeals of delight.

Shuffling to the courtyard amid murmurs of approval by the village onlookers the dancers took up their positions. Beginning with slow tinkling steps, the dancers worked themselves into a crescendo of fast footwork that left our ears ringing.

Encouraging cultural heritage Grass Routes connects travellers looking for authentic cultural experiences with local people imbued in traditional arts. It’s a wonderful exchange that serves to strengthen local culture and breathe fresh life into ancient traditions.

Get in touch on info@grassroutesjourneys.com

Grass Routes initiates Clean Up Puri Beach campaign

2010-09-19T13:05:00.005+05:30

Clean Up Puri Beach is part of a global Clean Up the World Campaign to empower local communities to clean up, fix up and conserve the local environment.

Puri has one of the most sublime stretches of beach in India. Pilgrims and travellers alike are attracted to its golden sands and serene sunsets.

The grim reality is however hard to ignore; rubbish is accumulating along our shore. Recognising the importance of maintaining a clean and healthy local environment Grass Routes teams up with local community groups to provide opportunities for people to step up and do something positive for Puri beach.

Grass Routes brings together community groups, travellers, local businesses and concerned individuals. Creating an opportunity for everyone to participate in Cleaning Up Puri Beach and be a part of global efforts to Clean Up the World.

More information : Join our Facebook page or contact info@grassroutesjourneys.com

when the gods descend ...

2010-07-08T11:34:00.016+05:30

Once a year in the holy town of Puri on the east coast of India, the Gods enter the fray of the common man to mingle with the mob. Attracting thousands of pilgrims, the annual Rath Yatra (or Chariot Festival) is an orchestrated riot of colour, spectacle and sweat.

Steeped in folklore and mythology the origins date back centuries and continue unabated today. Massive crowds gather on the streets all vying for a chance to set eyes on their beloved Gods. A motley crew linked by faith, devotion in their hearts and sweat on their brow, their anticipation and excitement is palpable.

The grand scale of the festival requires scrupulous coordination from the entire community, all prescribed to pitch in for the BIG event. Immense chariots are erected in the town square meticulously crafted and decorated by master carpenters and artisans. Children writhe in the hands of make-up artists, while dancers and performers drape themselves in rich costumes and musicians polish their instruments.

Leaving the lofty confines of the temple, the sacred deities are carried into the town square in a theatrical display of elaborate ritual. To the tune of percussion, chants and fervent devotion the Gods are seated in their respective chariots and physically hauled through the teeming streets.

The euphoric atmosphere verges on chaos at times, but the cacophony of colour and crowds is as overwhelming as it is enthralling. An assault to the senses, all in good Faith!

Grass Routes offers special power-packed festival tours that capture the extraordinary essence of the Rath Yatra. Additional day trips and festival tickets offering a privledged bird's eye view can be arranged through our Travellers Hub in Puri or by contacting us.

Ganjifa : Ancient Game Card of India

2010-05-26T16:40:00.007+05:30

Among favorite pastimes of ancient India, the game of cards known as Ganjifa found much favour with Kings, courtiers and general masses. Babur, the first Moghul ruler sent a gift of playing cards to a friend and by the 16^th century many different types of Ganjifa games had already developed in India

A typical deck of Ganjifa are hand-painted and extremely colorful. Each suit represents a different incarnation of Lord Krishna. Extended decks of twelve or up to twenty suits saw the edition of Ganesh and further divinites.

A neatly tabulated description of twelve-suited and eight-suited packs with all the details of cards and suit signs are provided by Abul Fazal, the Vizier and biographer of King Akbar in his book Ain-e-Akbari.

King Akbar is said to have invented a new game of 96 cards with eight suits known as Moghul Ganjifa. Distinct from later themes centered around Hindu themes which no doubt contributed greatly to the spread and popularity of the games.

Unlike Chess or Parchisi (Dice), Ganjifa is now close to extinction. Few players remain, skilled artisans are dwindling and with them their craft. Orissa is one of the last remaining pockets of this diminishing community.

Grass Routes encourages direct purchase from artisans. Special orders are welcome, please contact info@grassroutesjourneys.com

Turtle Conservation Guidelines

2010-05-05T11:48:00.006+05:30

Every year Coastal Orissa is graced with the arrival, nesting and hatching of the Olive Ridley Sea Turtle. A remarkable natural phenomenon of breathtaking proportions.

Orissa is one of the three most important nesting sites for the Olive Ridley Sea Turtle around the world (others are in Costa Rica & Mexico).

After mating in offshore waters, females come ashore to lay their eggs. Hatching occurs a month or so later when tiny baby turtles emerge from the nest and take their first intrepid steps toward the sea.

They have a long journey ahead of them; some will not survive the treacherous journey, others will travel thousands of ocean miles to return as adults and complete the cycle.

Grass Routes has produced conservation guidelines for travellers and volunteers to encourage responsible behaviour in witnessing and protecting the Olive Ridley Sea Turtle.

For more information on how you can get involved, please contact info@grassroutesjourneys.com

Drum roll please ...

2010-03-20T16:48:00.005+05:30

I may not know all of the people on this list but those that I do, I genuinely believe you are doing great work. Promoting tourism that is inclusive of getting down and dirty with the local culture is what its ALL about. I live in an ancient pilgrim city on the east coast of India. What I enjoy most about the peoples and the places here is the earthiness.

So here it is, let me introduce some friends in the local travel movement :

enjoy your travels!

www.localtravelmovement.com

A Traditional Handloom : Product of Orissa

2010-03-04T19:09:00.006+05:30

Ikat (literally ‘to tie’ or ‘to bind’ in Malay language) is a style of weaving that uses a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft before that threads are woven to create a pattern or design. It is one of the most complicated and time consuming ways to pattern cloth. The weavers of Orissa are highly skilled in this centuries old tradition.

Ikats have been woven in cultures all over the world; Central and South America, Central Asia, India and South East Asia. Woven fabric rarely survives for more than a few centuries, so it is extremely difficult (if not impossible) to determine where the technique of Ikat originated. It probably developed in several different locations independently.

Orissa can historically trace the tradition of ikat weaving to 800 years ago, although earlier temples reference handlooms, this cannot be historically proven. Ancient ports connected Orissa to South East Asia and transported their rich textile tradition with it. Today the same ikat techniques are found in Indonesia and Japan.

Ikats are created by first dyeing the warp and weft threads. Before reaching the loom the threads are bundled and tied and dyed separately. This takes a good deal of skill. The tightly bound bundles are sometimes covered with wx or some other material that keeps the dye from penetrating. The process is repeated several times for additional colours.

After the threads are dyed the loom is set up. The weft threads are then wound onto spools for later weaving and the warp threads (which are mostly seen in border ornaments) are tied onto the loom and wound around the warp beams.

As the pre dyed weft yarns are woven into the cloth the pattern magically reappears. It is simply amazing that things line up the way they do; that all the measuring, dying and spooling can all be planned to perfection and result in such seamless design.

Local Insight: Some like it Sweet

2010-01-03T18:53:00.010+05:30

Allow me to introduce 'Khajar'; a super sweet traditional pastry unique to the temple town of Puri, on the East Coast of India.

Similar, at a stretch to Turkish Baklava (minus the nuts, although I do think that would be a fabulous variation) the crisp pastry is layered and dipped into fine sugar syrup. A wonderful accompaniment to strong black coffee.

Prepared daily in the temple kitchen of Lord Jagannath, khajar is offered as prasad (holy food). It can be purchased (by the kilo) from select stores outside the main temple entry gate.

Bon Appetite!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

2009-12-21T13:02:00.002+05:30

Wishing you all the best for the festive season and throughout 2010. We have an exciting year ahead with many new journeys in the mix and lots of extra features to embrace. Watch this space! Look forward to sharing many incredible journeys with you in the coming year. Happy Holidays!

Orissa Highlights

2009-12-11T09:56:00.003+05:30

Classic, timeless Orissa, thriving traditional cultures topped with tranquil natural beauty. Stand in awe at India’s earliest and most majestic temples. Delight in medieval towns where the past is very much part of today. Traverse palm fringed paddies and tap into the simple pleasures of rural India. Cruise along tranquil Chilika Lake, Asia’s largest salt lake lagoon and camp under a sparkling starlit sky. Meet extraordinary everyday people and learn the secret behind their enduring smiles!

Tour orissa highlights with Grass Routes • 6 Days > Bhubaneshwar - Puri

Grass Routes Guide to Bhubaneshwar

2009-11-29T22:09:00.010+05:30

Bhubaneshwar, capital of Orissa since the ancient ‘Kalinga’ empire boasts settlement stretching back 2000 years. At its height there were over 7000 religious shrines here. Today only a fraction survive, but they still number 500 (in various stages of preservation) – more than enough to satisfy the curious traveller.

Bhubaneshwar boasts an impressive skyline – the towering spire of the Lingaraja temple, the magnificent Japanese built Peace Pagoda of Dhauli hills and the remarkable temple of Mahavira on Khandagiri hills. This trio exemplifies the arrival and evolution of Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism during different periods of Orissa’s long spiritual odyssey.

The greatest and most vibrant Lingaraja is beautifully carved and stands proud for all to see from miles ways. This temple is off-limits to non-Hindus, although thanks to British Viceroy Lord Curzon, foreign travellers can purvey the scene from a specially erected viewing tower.

The chaotic mix of adidas showrooms and tree-lined avenues of Bhubaneshwar’s city streets are more indicative of the recent shift in focus. Bhubaneshwar is making every effort of develop as a ‘modern’ city with cineplexes and shopping malls catering to the new disposal income of younger generations. However traditional mindsets persist making Bhubaneshwar a city in flux. Today it stands as a patchwork of old and new with concrete shopping blocks caressing thriving medieval temples.

things to do

Walk around the old part of town (savour what is left)
Park yourself outside Lingaraja Temple entrance & watch the flow of pilgrims
Shop till you drop @ Ekamra Haat
Watch the sunset from the hilltop @ Dhauli
Check out the Tribal Museum (insightful, despite horrendous labelling)
Drop into the Orissa Modern Art Gallery (there is more to Oriya art than the 10 incarnations of Vishnu!)
Wander through the ancient Jain cave complex @ Udaygiri
Watch 1970’s Bollywood films (every night @ 6:30) @ Bollywood 70 Restaurant
Stroll around the lush gardens of Ekamra Kanan Park
Admire detailed craftsmanship @ Sudarshan Art & Craft Museum

places to see

1. Lingaraja Temple

2. Bindu Sagar

3. Mukteshwar, Siddheswar & Parsurameswar

4. Museum of Tribal Arts & Artifacts (Mon – Fri 10 – 5)

5. Orissa Modern Art Gallery (Mon - Sat, 11:30-1 & 4-8, Sun 4-8)

6. State Museum (Tues – Sun, 10am – 4pm)

7. Jain Caves (Udaygiri & Khandagiri)

8. Nandankanan Zoo

9. Sudarshan Art & Craft Museum

10. Ekamra Kanan Park

what and where to Shop

1. Handicrafts, Ekamra Haat

2. Handloom Textiles, Boyanika, Sambalpuri Bastralaya & Priyadarshini (Market Building)

3. Just about anything (local market), Market Building

4. Cotton & Jute Bags @ Vriksh

5. Books @ Modern Book Depot

6. Stone Sculpture @ Raghunath Craft Museum

what and where to Eat and Drink

1. Traditional Thali (Oriya style) @ Orissa Restaurant

2. Indian (try the Cook’s Special) @ Cook’s Restaurant

3. Oriya Cuisine @ Royal Garden Restaurant

4. Indian (with a dash of Continental) @ Dawat

5. Thai, Chinese & Indonesian @ Lemongrass (Mayfair)

6. South Indian @ Venus Inn

7. North Indian @ Tangerine

8. Cold Beer @ The Baron & the Baroness (Mayfair)

9. Ice Cream @ Baskin Robbins (The Forum) – I know you didn’t come all the way India to eat ice-cream & drink coffee (next suggestion) but you’ll be thanking me when its 45 degrees in the shade!

10. Iced Coffee @ Café Coffee Day

Grass Routes offers Bhubaneshwar City Tours, Weekend Getaways and extended journeys. Contact us @ info@grassroutesjourneys.com

Grass Routes journeys that include Bhubaneshwar:

Orissa Highlights

6 days : Bhubaneshwar - Puri - Chilika Lake - Puri

Art & Culture

7 days : Bhubaneshwar - Puri - Dhavaleswar - Kantilo - Bhubaneshwar

Nature & Wildlife

11 days : Bhubaneshwar - Bhitarkanika - Joranda - Satkosia - Chilika Lake - Puri

Profile on Puri: Orissa

2009-11-18T15:51:00.007+05:30

Puri is one of the oldest cities in the eastern part of the country, most famous for its Jagannath temple or ‘White Pagoda’ as dubbed by early European marines. Declared one of four Hindu holy spots by Hindu reformer Shankaracharya in the 9th century, Puri has been thronging with pilgrims ever since. Dip into traditional temple culture and the labyrinth of communities connected to the old-world way of life. Artisans, chefs, potters and pilgrims alike rest their faith and their very livelihoods on the temple – the heart and epicentre of Puri.

Pilgrim town first and foremost, Puri doubles as a popular beach holiday. Situated on the east coast of India facing the Bay of Bengal, Puri combines salvation with a playful splash in the ocean. A leisurely stroll along Puri’s shoreline is a ‘must’. Less for the beach itself, more for the frenetic activity! The top end springs to life with a beach market in the evening and stretching toward the east on the other side of town the day is punctuated by fresh hauls from the fishing community.

Western backpackers have made Puri their home since Goa became too passé. A quieter retreat with none of Goa’s party scene, Puri continues to attract an eclectic mix of travellers; from new-age hare krishnas, to retired artists and everything in between. Puri is one of the few places in India where you can get a freshly brewed coffee and collide with old-world pilgrims all in one breath.

Grass Routes runs Old City Tours of Puri. Email your enquires or swing by our Travellers Hub for more information. Happy travelling!

Green Circuit launched at WTM - London

2009-11-12T20:37:00.005+05:30

“I hope initiatives like this also start in other parts of the world ”, said Fiona Jeffrey, head of World Travel Market, as she launched the official website of the Green Circuit www.thegreencircuit.net

Initiated by Socialtours in Nepal, the Green Circuit is a partnership between five rresponsible toursim operators throughout the Indian Sub-continent. Socialtours, Help Tourism, Grass Routes, The Blue Yonder and Ecosphere all specialize in deep rooted community based responsible tourism initiatives. The Green Circuit unites rexperts in their respective regions covering destinations in Nepal, the Himalayas, the North East and East India and the southern tip.

This is a refreshing approach, Rather than competing against each other as traditional tourism businesses often do, the Green Circuit network comes together in a shining spirit of collaboration. Each tour operator in the Green Circuit is a committed expert in their chosen field offering unique tourism product specific to local environmental and cultural conditions.

Tapping into the Green Circuit links provides crucial links to a trusted independent network. That each operator finds faith and sincerity in the other’s work is a huge vote of confidence that speaks volumes about the integrity behind the Green Circuit and the circle of trust uniting each responsible tourism partner.

Further information is available on http://www.thegreencircuit.net or email info@thegreencircuit.net and on each of the responsible tourism operator's respective websites:

Socialtours, Help Tourism, Grass Routes, The Blue Yonder and Ecosphere.

Birder's Paradise

2009-10-28T19:30:00.008+05:30

Chilika Lake, Asia's largest estruarine lagoon hosts over a million birds every winter. Migratory waterfowl wing in from places as far away as Siberia to jostle resident species over freshwater wetland. Water lilies open with the rising sun and a symphony of bird calls flutter to our ears.

We are perched on the northern edge of Chilika Lake overlooking the 1100 square kilometre expanse of waters as it stretches seaward toward the Bay of Bengal. Here, a small but remarkable village has come full circle to protect a vital wetland area of international importance.

Historically residents of Mangalajodi village posed a threat to bird life. Many families turned the lucrative poaching trade and it wasn’t long before bird numbers hit an all-time low. A local conservation organization Wild Orissa meet with the villagers a decade ago and has been instrumental in guiding their transformation ever since.

Poachers developed an intricate knowledge of bird habitats, breeding cycles and migration patterns. The challenge was to utilise this knowledge and their existing skill-set for conservation. Awareness campaigns combined with sting operations convinced many to change their ways. The transition was not an easy one for Kishan Behera "pressure from within the community was hard to withstand, but how long can we keep killing (the birds) before there is nothing left." As a reformed poacher himself, Kishan is well versed in the tricks of the trade and provides valuable information and insights against members of his own community. It’s a brave effort that over the years gained momentum and support.

Now a local village committee has been formed by a core group of ex-poachers determined to continue their new role as protectors. Members of the committee conduct daily surveillance patrols to check incidences of poaching. During winter they are also engaged in monitoring the wetlands and are excited by the increase of migratory birds flocking to their homeland.

The new protectors double-up as impressive guides to this newly burgeoning destination. We glide through sun-flecked reeds with binoculars poised. Kishan Behera gently taps the side of the dung-out canoe to indicate he’s spotted something; following his hand. we witness a pair of Asian Openbill Storks stretch their broad wings and take flight with extended necks. Kishan whispers the bird’s common name in English. His ability to navigate effortlessly through the watertable was invaluable. His knowledge of local and migratory birds greatly enriches the experience.

Eco-tourism activities such as boat cruises and nature walks provide a supplementary income for the poachers turned protectors. More than just extra pennies in their pockets, eco-tourism serves to encourage local conservation efforts. Providing support and adding weight to the shift has made remarkable changes in the villages psyche. From a community bent on destruction emerges a concentrated collective focused on preservation.

The village at Mangalojodi is a unique example of how partnerships can give way to conservation and sustainable livelihoods. Eco-tourism plays a vital key; one that draws attention and appreciation to local conservation efforts. Breathing new life into natural habitats and safeguarding local environments for generations to come.

Grass Routes operates special customised tours to Mangalajodi on request. We highly recommend the winter months from November to February. Literally a buzz with activity!

Travel Green Guide 2009

2009-09-27T18:22:00.005+05:30

The International Ecotourism Society launches its Travel Green Guide. Check it out for insightful travel tips and find out how easy it is to make responsible tourism choices.

Open publication - Free publishing - More travel guide

'travel can be a powerful tool for positie change, inspiring awareness, tolerance and commitment to social and environmental responsibility'.
- Dr Kelly Bricker (Chair of the Board, TIES)

GREEN Circuit on Responsibletravel.com

2009-09-03T13:15:00.008+05:30

The GREEN Circuit is now featured on responsibletravel.com!

The GREEN Circuit brings together the best responsible adventure tours around the Indian subcontinent. Travellers combine all four trips for a full circuit, or pick one or a combination of any of the four.

An eco-initiative of Raj Gyawali of SocialTours.com, the GREEN Circuit was launched at SATTE, New Delhi in 2009. Contributors to the GREEN Circuit are Help Tourism, in the Eastern Himalaya, Grass Routes in Orissa, East India, The Blue Yonder in Kerala and SocialTours.com in Nepal.

Each tour operator is a responsible tourism pioneer in their respective area. The GREEN Circuit unites common modes of operation in conservation and community development. The initiative marks a new dynamism for tourism in the Indian Subcontinent; drawing greater strength from collaboration (rather than competition) by sharing knowledge, resources and ideas.

Travellers benefit from specialised local expertise by tapping into local communities and grassroots conservation efforts in the respective pockets of the Indian Subcontinent. Each element of the GREEN Circuit encourages eco-friendly modes of operation and links each tour with appropriate options for minimising travellers carbon footprint while on the road.

Responsibletravel.com is the world’s leading travel agent for responsible holidays. You can book the GREEN Circuit here.

Orissa Dance troupe Top of the Pops

2009-08-25T15:25:00.004+05:30

What every tea shop in Orissa and beyond is talking about.

India’s national talent contest ‘India’s Got Talent’ televised their grand finale last Sunday. The show has captivated national audiences with the diverse breadth of talent emerging from the most unlikely corners. The series winner is no exception.

A group of construction labourers from Orissa was conferred top place with their visual representation of scenes from the popular Hindu epic, the Mahabharata. None of the 26 artists (all below the age of 22) have any professional dancing experience. The troupe are lead by an aspiring dancer who will utilise the prize money to set up his own studio, develop his practice and promote his unique style.

The performance; a mix of stagecraft, acrobatics and postures has dramatic creative vision that taps into the cultural and religious sentiments of a nation. A sure winner!

The grand finale depicts the 10 incarnations of Vishnu, one of the main Gods in Hinduism. His appointed role as the ‘protector’ takes many shapes over the ages. Here’s Vishnu’s reincarnation rundown:

10 Incarnations of Vishnu:

Mayta : Fish
Kurma : Turtle
Varaha : Boar
Narsimha : Half Man / Half Lion
Vamana : Dwarf Brahmin
Purshuram : Warrior Saint
Ram : Man
Krishna : Cowherder / Philosopher
Buddha : Spiritualist
Kalki : Destroyer of Darkness

Re) Creating Myths

2009-08-04T22:47:00.007+05:30

The Mahabharata is a major epic of ancient India. History and myth intertwine to create an Indian consciousness that has impacted society throughout the ages.

In the 15th century, Sarala Das, a great poet from Orissa executed his creative license and added episodes beyond those found elsewhere in India.

The picture here illustrates Vishnu visiting Arjuna during his penance in a forest. Vishnu takes the form of ‘Nava-gunjara’, a vigorous animal standing on fours legs; an elephant, a tiger, a horse and a human arm (extending the lotus flower). The head is that of a rooster, the neck a peacock, the hump a bull and the waist that of a lion. Finally the tail is a snake. Despite the disguise, on seeing this deadly creature Arjuna recognises Vishnu. Thus his penance is not in vain if he can see God!

By retelling the Mahabharata in the local language of Orissa (Oriya), Sarala Das left his indelable mark. This detail continues to exist in popular folklore and forms part of the fabric known as tradition.

The painting illustrated here is rendered in the traditional 'patachitra' painting style unique to Orissa.

Global Day of Action against Vedanta Resources

2009-07-27T21:34:00.004+05:30

STOP THE CULTURAL GENOCIDE, ENVIRONMENTAL DEVASTATION, HUMAN RIGHTS VIOLATION, DEADLY POLLUTION

The Global Campaign against Vedanta Resources plc protested today inside and outside the Annual General Meeting of Vedanta Resources plc. Simultaneous protests held in Orissa, other parts of India and throughout the globe.

Vedanta Resources is a multinational mining company, listed on the London Stock Exchange whose spectacular rise involves violating Environmental Laws, Human Rights Abuse, Financial scams & Political corruption in Zambia, Armenia, India and other countries where it exploits poorly regulated mining enclaves. Recently Vedanta has announced plans to start mining in the Niyamgiri hills of Orissa, India from October 2009 and it aims to increase operations by 6 fold by 2011.

Vedanta’s mining in Orissa will have a devastating impact on the fragile Ecosystem of this fertile and vitally important forested mountainous region and the state of Orissa in general.

It will lead to a Cultural Genocide of the ancient tribal civilization of the Dongria Kondh and Majhi Kondh tribes, who have lived ecologically sustainable & self sufficient lives for centuries in these mountains. Vedanta’s mining will also lead to severely toxic pollution, diseases, terminal illnesses, destruction of endangered wildlife, damage to the wild elephant population, devastation of crops and arable land and the poisoning and drying up of rivers and streams, which will have catastrophic effects on tens of thousands of people for whom these rivers are crucial lifelines in Kalahandi, one of the most drought prone regions of India.

The Global Campaign against Vedanta Resources plc is spread over several countries and includes over 150 solidarity groups, Grassroots movements, NGOs, activists, intellectuals, academics, students and professionals who demand the following:-

1. Vedanta should IMMEDIATELY ABANDON PLANS for mining Bauxite in the Niyamgiri hills of Orissa.

2. PARLIAMENTARY INVESTIGATIONS in the UK and in India into Vedanta’s operations in India and around the world.

3. Vedanta, a UK based company, MUST BE MADE ACCOUNTABLE for the social, environmental and health repercussions suffered by local communities around the world as a result of Vedanta’s callous mining activities. Those who have been affected and abused by Vedanta’s activities MUST BE ENABLED to seek justice in their home countries and/or in the UK.

4. Vedanta Ltd, Regulators, the UK Government and Governments of the mining enclaves MUST IMPLEMENT MORE EFFECTIVE CONTROLS on Vedanta’s operations.

5. Vedanta’s Shareholders and other investors must be MADE FULLY AWARE of the true nature of this mining company they are investing in so that they can make a better informed decision on whether to WITHDRAW THEIR INVESTMENTS from this criminally destructive mining company.

Grass Routes: Trusted Partner in Orissa

2009-07-12T15:24:00.012+05:30

Grass Routes is now a trusted partner of Nature and Kind named Top 10 Ethical Operator by Harpers Bazaar.

Inspired by the values and principles of ethically minded companies like The Body Shop, Patagonia and Wholefoods, the vision for Nature & Kind is to create a lifestyle consumer brand that defines ‘a way and quality of life’ for its consumers.

Nature and Kind's pursuit of authentic, healthy and sustainable travel experiences fits perfectly with the kind of community led experiences provided by Grass Routes.

Check out the Orissa Odyssey as featured on Nature and Kind.

Slow Food: the traditional Oriya way

2009-06-27T23:04:00.006+05:30

Long before labels were conceived to communicate a movement, food in Orissa was slow. When livelihoods depend on agriculture its only natural that people are tuned in to the cycle of nature. The consumption of food is directly linked to seasonal crops and the cycle of harvest.

Furthermore the preparation of foods from the staple crop is slow. The lack of automated mechanisms means production is in the hands of the community. What has evolved is something of a small-scale cottage industry.

Let’s take rice as an example. In Orissa there are over 100 varieties of rice grain. From this we see multiple forms of rice preparation; boiled, puffed, pressed, ground, roasted and fermented, all done at a village level under the organization of local cooperatives.

This short film demonstartes how one such preparation sustains an entire village. Grass Routes has always advocated locally produced food. All our camping trips and many of our village visits support village-led cottage industries. Not only does it sustain local communities but it keeps tradition alive and tastes good too!

‘Ukhuda’ a delicious rice and jaggary preparation akin to Rice Bubbles made in Orissa.

Puri's Vanishing Beach

2009-06-17T11:04:00.007+05:30

Soil erosion at Puri beach has been a concern of Grass Routes since its conception and we adamantly oppose the rampant construction along Puri’s shoreline in direct contravention if Coastal Zone regulations.

Puri can boast the highest number of hotel rooms for any single destination in India. Most of the time the rooms are vacant, reaching their capacity only on specific festival occasions. The most successful area for hoteliers is on the beachfront close to the Lord Jagannath temple (don’t forget it’s a pilgrimage afterall).

Thousands of hotels have reclaimed sand dunes in recent years. Huge multi stored towers built to within an inch of the allotted property lot are stacked up along the shoreline. Waves come within 300 metres from the hotel reception desk bisected only by a newly constructed road.

All this is completely illegal. The Coastal Zone regulations of India's Central Government clearly state no construction is allowed within 500 metres of the shore. The road providing access to more hotels should never have been built and is already crumbling; the fragile sand barrier unable to hold all the tar and metal.

Construction materials for these hotels inevitably require sand to mix with concrete (construction material of choice). The sand is illegally dredged from the town’s sweet water zone; an area where no construction is permitted (deconstruction reigns supreme). The town’s water supply depends entirely on this water, which for the first time is showing acute signs of running out. Boaring further into the earth is not a viable option as below this level the water is saline.

This is just the tip of the iceberg of what is undeniably an environmental disaster. India is slowly waking up and this program recently screened on NDTV indicates greater concern and awareness. I just hope its not too late. If the state Government do not step in to enforce regulations soon, there may be nothing left to save.

Indigenous communities struggle against mining magnate

2009-06-08T22:16:00.008+05:30

Another poignant portrayal of the Dongria Kondh's struggle against mining of their sacred homeland.

A dynamic indigneous community nestled in the south western hills of Orissa continue to protest against corporate interests in the mountain they revere as God and have called home for centuries.

Machines have moved in and time is running out.

You can help save a precious mountain rich in biodiversity. Add your voice to this dynamic indigenous community. Send a letter here.

Find out more about Survival International's campaign here.

Travels in Troubled Nations

2009-06-02T09:51:00.009+05:30

I’ve just returned from a journey that extended overland from Delhi to Lahore and up the Karakoram Highway to the ancient Silk Route outpost of Kashgar in China. We proceeded by train to Lhasa and worked our way south via Mt Everest to Kathmandu. I don’t wish to analyse or over simplify the social & political situation of either country here, rather put forward my own humble impressions.

Crossing the Wagah border into Pakistan the warmth and genuine hospitality is immediately palpable. It is easy to be lulled into a sense of security, nonetheless we decide to forego Swat in favour of more time in the Hunza Valley. On our way up from Lahore we bump into a television crew filming a travel segment and a newly outfitted army convey stoically making their way to the battlefield.

Braving the 45 degree steep hairpins & pencil thin roads of the Karakoram, we inch past landslides & vicarious road construction into China. The day we reach Kashgar we hear of heavy altercations in the Swat Valley resulting in thousands of refugees. Our journey in Pakistan abounds in fond personal memories, but persistent headlines remind us of the increasingly fragile security situation in the face of the Taliban.

But China doesn’t have any security issues. That it wants to talk about.

Swept along by Tibetan pilgrims we circumambulate the Jorkhang Temple located at the core of Lhasa and at the very heart of Tibetan culture. The security personal appointed by the government to protect the temple march in groups of six in the opposite direction, counter to local customs. Security cameras bare down on the public square and rooftops are dotted with armed guards. Monestary complexes echo ghost towns as monks sit in jail awaiting liberation.

My heart swells to think of the open friendliness of the common men and women in Pakistan, despite terrorism being a very real part of the everyday. In start contrast I was affronted by communism and capitalism in China. We met friendly people but never came close to the heart of matters in China. The landscape in Tibet is simply stunning and like nothing else on this earth, however the dullness in the eyes of its people will overshadow and haunt me.

In the end its clear what matter most to me when I travel; the people make the place. I’ll hold onto moments of spontaneous happiness shared with strangers along the road and cherish open approaches to difference. Travelling is afterall a privileged opportunity to draw strength from our incredible diversity.

GREEN Circuit 'LIVE" Launch

2009-04-25T08:50:00.004+05:30

24th April – The Green Circuit was launched ‘LIVE’ amidst the Responsible Travel Network Meeting at SATTE, New Delhi. This is a collaborative initiative started by socialtours.com in February, which was pitched at ITB Berlin at the last network meeting.

This new product offers clients an excellent opportunity to experience a selection of the best ‘responsible’ products in the Indian sub-continent. One can land at any of the many international airports, or arrive at a train station to start the journey, all of it is done overland within the sub-continent, so as to reduce carbon emissions. One can then finish off at an international airport or a train station, choose to continue the trip in one continuous circuit, or come back another time to continue on with the next journey.

The circuit is being jointly marketed, meaning it can be booked individually, or together with any of the partner operators. It is also being offered in international retail travel portals. Again, working on responsibility ethos, it is customizable, so can be broken up into smaller trips to fit traveler requirements.

We believe the scalability of the product, and it is meant to be inclusive, not exclusive, working on the ethos of responsibility, but at this stage, we are offering select products from these four operators, to smoothen out logistic challenges with zero compromise on visitor experience. Once this phase is over, we will open it to other products and operators, who are no doubt, also responsible.

The GREEN Circuit can currently be viewed at:
www.socialtours.com
www.helptourism.com/blog
www.tourdust.com

And coming soon on
www.theblueyonder.com
www.grassroutesjourneys.com
www.traveltocare.com

We invite international operators to talk to us to determine ways to market it. And also travelers to come to these websites, make enquires and/or book directly with us.

GREEN Circuit LAUNCH

2009-04-23T17:17:00.003+05:30

The GREEN circuit is a special initiative uniting the best eco-trips in the indian sub-continent. Joined together by ground travel (preferred to air) to reduce carbon emissions, travellers can access magnificent overland eco-adventures.

Currently serviced by four pioneering operators in their respective regions, travellers can take in one trip at a time, or link them together for the ultimate India experience.

share our passion
We are deeply passionate about people and nature! Therefore, we make serious efforts during our trips at creating an enabling environment where this interaction can happen. Combine this with well designed trips, responsible travel practices and negation of carbon footprint, and you have with us an irresistable holiday offer, aimed to exceed your holiday expectations, with utmost regard to your safety, gentle on our environment and at the same time maximizing contribution to the local economy.

View Green Circuit, Indian Subcontinent in a larger map

Responsible Tourism Networking Event at SATTE

2009-04-18T21:43:00.004+05:30

Pragati Maidan, New Delhi on April 24th, 2009

Following the success of Responsible Tourism networking events held at WTM in November 2007 & 2008 and at ITB in March 2009, the event at SATTE is an exciting opportunity to meet passionate responsible tourism players from across the world. The open format provides businesses opportunities to share their initiatives and broadcast how you help conserve the natural environment and support local communities and economies.

The event will be broadcast live across thanks to Travelmole's VISION on Sustainable Tourism. A truly global event and a more cost-effective and sustainable way of networking!

Mine: story of a sacred mountain

2009-04-07T17:39:00.005+05:30

The Dongria and other local Kondh people are resisting a UK mining company, Vedanta and are determined to save the Niyamgiri Hills from becoming an industrial wasteland.

Other Kondh groups are already suffering due to a bauxite refinery, built and operated by Vedanta, at the base of the Niyamgiri Hills.

The Niyamgiri Hills are home to the more than 8,000 Dongria Kondh, whose lifestyle and religion have helped nurture the area’s dense forests and unusually rich wildlife.

The Dongria farm the hill slopes, grow crops in among the forest, and gather wild fruit, flowers and leaves for sale.

They call themselves Jharnia, meaning ‘protector of streams’, because they protect their sacred mountain which they worship as God and the life-giving rivers that rise within its thick forests.

Grass Routes partners the Dongria Kondh communitiy to provide sustainable opportunities for future development. We support their struggle against Vedanta and the industrialization of the precious natural and cultural resources.

You can help the Dongria Kondh's struggle for survival by voicing your dissent of Vedanta. Send a letter here. Know more about Survival International's campaign here.

Hero of the Month

2009-03-09T13:06:00.004+05:30

Grass Routes co-founder Claire Prest is this months female hero of the month according to business magazine The Next Women. Quite a prestigious honor, especially as we celebrate International Women’s Day.

Excepts from the article here:

Working as a business woman in India can be challenging. Therefore Grass Routes is keen to encourage female participation in the travel industry, whilst also remaining respectful to the local culture and traditions. Claire says; “Unfortunately in India few women are involved in the tourism industry (except for cottage industries). There is still a lot of stigma attached to befriending foreigners, which is a real shame. We encourage women to participate and often enjoy their culinary skills in rural villages! Funnily enough its in tribal and rural villages where we find the strongest women. Urban centres can’t cope with the rapid change.”

And what does the next year hold for Grass Routes? Claire says “We are looking forward to strengthening our ties with the local communities. We will soon be heading out to conduct our annual meetings and bounce around ideas for improvements or further development. We are also designing a cycling itinerary and tying up with different associations for more overland adventures.”

Full article can be read here.

GrassRoutes on the GREEN Circuit

2009-03-07T19:47:00.004+05:30

An initiative by Raj Gyawali, Founder & Director of socialtours.com and socialtreks.com, the GREEN Circuit circumnavigates the Indian subcontinent. A grand ambitious project sees the light after much brooding.

The time is ripe for this idea to surface; a bunch of innovators from different corners are working together to support each other’s respective initiatives. In a highly competitive market, this show of solidarity is rare.

A natural alliance of GREEN travel companies that abide by ethical and responsible tourism are linking up to prove the Indian sub-continent a GREEN Circuit. An unbeatable overland adventure linking up various cultural & eco-tours. Travellers can traverse the entire route or jump on and off according to their needs.

So far we have :
• Nepal circuit “The Tamang Heritage Trail” covered by SocialTours & SocialTreks
• East India Circuit “Orissa Odyssey” by GrassRoutes
• Kerala by The Blue Yonder.

The intiative will be launched at ITB in Berlin, actively supported by experts in local travel like Your Safe Planet and Valere Tjolle Sustainable Tourism Editor from TravelMole. Further inputs welcome!

People's Film Festival

2009-02-27T20:32:00.004+05:30

Film fever continues in Orissa's capital, Bhubaneshwar. Devoid of the sea, sun and sand of BYOFF, the People's Film Festival has a more social and environmental activist bent. Touching on local grassroots issues, festival highlights to plight of the common man.

PEOPLES FILM FESTIVAL
27 Feb - 1 March 2009
Lohia Academy, Bhubaneshwar

For travellers that will miss this festival, Grass Routes will obtain some of the best, most pertinent films on Orissa for viewing on request at our travellers lounge & information centre in Puri.

FILM Fever !!

2009-02-20T10:51:00.008+05:30

As the days start to stretch and the sun begins to warm the sand, the days of Puri's very own beach film festival draw near.

Yes, the annual BYOFF (Bring your own film festival) is here again!

21st – 25th February 2009

BYOFF is an informal and intimate gathering of artists. Screenings are held in make-shit tents on Puri beach and continue after sundown in the open air.

BYOFF has been an alternative platform for filmmakers ever since its first edition in the year 2004. The idea is to have a festival away from the oppressive bureaucratic atmosphere of big cities and provide a platform where just about anybody - with or without films - can participate.

The beach carnival ambiance provides the perfect atmosphere to kick back and appreciate real/reel independent cinema. Enjoy!

More information: www.byofilmfestival.com

Beach Camp: 1 - 2 Feb 2009

2009-01-30T15:22:00.010+05:30

The OCCASION

The lunar calendar shapes India’s multitude of festivals and auspicious events. The Indian calendar is punctuated by the rise and fall of the moon and this event corresponds to the seventh day of the new moon of Magha.

The MYTHOLOGY
The roots of this festival lie in an ancient Hindu myth. The son of Lord Krishna strayed into his parent’s bedroom catching them ‘in the act’! The furious Lord Krishna consequently cursed his son with leprosy. Krishna’s right-hand man perceived this to be too great a punishment for such an innocent deed and stepped in to advise him to seek a cure at Chandrabhaga River. Daily meditations and worship of the Sun God followed for 12 years curing Lord Krishna’s son of his fathers curse. The sacred spot has been heralded as possessing curative properties ever since. Pilgrims and Krishna devotees gather at this same spot every year in tribute to this penance.

The EVENT
Join our exclusive overnight beach camp. Relax on the shores of a pristine beach, gather around a bonfire at sunset, swap travellers tales and gaze at the stars. Watch the sun rise over the Bay of Bengal, swim in the ocean, bask in the sun’s curative rays and rejuvenate body & soul.

Bookings & More Information:
Grass Routes Travellers Lounge & Information Centre: CT Rd, Puri, Orissa.
9437029698 • 9437022663 • 6572 226642

Grass Routes meets Social Enterprise

2009-01-25T12:11:00.008+05:30

Eariler this month I met up with Deniz Hassan from the Social Enterprise Magazine team. He and two of his buddies where roaring along the east coast of India as part of The Adventurist' rickshaw run. Deniz stopped by to chat about the Social Enterprise magazine and learn about our operations at Grass Routes.

Our work as a social enterprise can be understood by our commitments to the following:

1. employment & economies: We are committed toward local employment and economies. We employ local staff including local leaders that accompany all our journeys, local village representatives, taxi drivers, boatmen, chefs and forest guides. Furthermore we employ village representatives and local specialists when and wherever possible. We believe in providing local communities a voice and an opportunity to grow. We encourage their participation in all our initiatives.

2. incorporate the services of local providers (such as hotels, cycle rickshaw drivers and forest guards) in all our journeys. We utilize the services of locally owned and managed hotels. In more remote areas we camp. whereby we contribute provisions that are divided among the entire community.

3. encouraging travellers to eat in local restaurants wherever possible providing information about local specialities and where they can be found. In rural areas villages prepare delicious home-cooked meals for which they are duly compensated.

4. encouraging our travellers to buy directly from local traders and purchase locally produced products (such as biodegradable soap, shampoo & sunscreen). We provide opportunities for our travellers to purchase directly from local craftsmen and artisans and maintain a strict ‘no-commissions’ policy. Grass Routes contributes to the revival of ancient folk art by drawing attention to local artisans and indigenous communities often marginalised by the average consumer.

5. supporting local development: Grass Routes always promotes local interaction. We believe mutual understanding is the best foundation for tourism related services. We encourage open dialogue and active participation. We provide opportunities for local people to learn skills necessary to become part of our business operation. Our travellers lounge and information centre is a creative space for knowledge sharing and open to travellers and locals alike. Additionally we initiate field based capacity building and provide practical hands-on training to locals.

We recognise the need for relationships built on trust and guided by sound leadership. The very root cause of our companies operations is to provide opportunities, revive ancient traditions and inject new vigor into local communities. By connecting cultures Grass Routes bridges boundaries and opens up possibilities.

Lessons in Turmeric

2008-12-18T13:27:00.011+05:30

Most often it is the simple things in life that are taken for granted. I have been cooking with turmeric for years now tossing it into nearly every dish. Turmeric is used liberally in Indian cooking and forms the base of most curries.

I have had vague notions about its antiseptic properties. I have watched fishing communities throughout the country dress fresh fish with salt and turmeric to preserve the meat in absence of refrigeration. Even families with access to refrigeration persist with this process.

And I have witnessed Tamil ladies apply turmeric paste to their faces to achieve not only a warm glow but to keep the skin cool and clear from blemishes. I have personally been privy to a turmeric ‘mud-pack’ and can confirm a resultant smoothness of the skin.

Turmeric is also known as ‘poor man’s saffron’ as it shares a similar hue and subtle flavour at a fraction of saffron’s cost.

Visiting a sustainable development project from one of our affiliates PREM (Peoples Rural Education Movement) I had the opportunity to learn more about this extraordinary everyday spice.

Our visit took us to Kandhamal district where 50% of the population (some 300,000 people) are turmeric cultivators. The cultivation begins in the summer months of May and June and is harvested in December through to February. We joined in the harvest that would collectively reap no less than 9,000 tonnes and is worth more than 300 million.

Many of the turmeric cultivators here belong to indigenous communities who have practiced traditional farming techniques from time immemorial. This means no synthetic chemical fertilizers have ever touched the soil and ensures the plant is wholly organic.

The result is the finest turmeric in the world, not only because of its organic certification but because it has the highest concentrate of curcumin the active ingredient that produces therapeutic benefits. Curcumin is well known for its anti-tumor, anti-oxidant, anti-amyloid and anti-inflammatory properties.

In the mid 1990’s the US patented turmeric raising global concerns of intellectual property rights and indigenous knowledge. The patent was eventually revoked in the face of indisputable evidence that turmeric has been used in India as early as 3000 B.C. The Harappan civilization is believed to be the earliest cultivators of turmeric and Sanskrit texts recount the numerous uses turmeric has found throughout the ages.

Indeed turmeric permeates everyday life in India and aided by some cultivators I have come up with some further examples of how this golden spice has become part of life throughout the subcontinent:

• Aid to digestion and immunity.
• Drunk with warm milk, turmeric stems coughs, cures colds and comforts throats.
• Turmeric powder heals open wounds, detoxifies the liver and balances cholesterol levels.
• Its decoction is a stubborn dye used to produce natural textiles.
• Some indigenous communities in Orissa paint their doorways with turmeric paste as an insecticide.
• The women of South India use turmeric to enhance complexion and make a depilatory cream.
• Turmeric forms the base of the vermilion used to mark married Hindu women and throughout temples in India.

Needless to say I will never take this humble spice for granted again!

Tea & Philosophy

2008-11-11T16:12:00.005+05:30

There is a great tradition in eastern India that sets tongues wagging. It is no less than art of conversation! A favoured pastime among the people is the ‘adda’.

Perhaps originating in the days of the zamindar where landlords surrounded themselves with moshables or sycophants and whiled the days in idle gossip. Or perhaps its roots lie in the village, where elders used to discuss local politics during open public forums.

The ‘adda’ reached its height of sophistication during the literary days of Tagore when prose was rounded off by exquisitely prepared snacks and delicate cups of tea.

The ‘adda’ however is much more than merely making conversation. It’s traditions are perhaps best expressed by Amartya Sen in his eminent book ‘The Argumentative Indian'. Here Sen brings to light the great tradition in India of informal debate.

The ‘adda’ is something of a conference without the stuffy suits and predestined agenda. A platform for folks of all walks of life to share thoughts and philosophies.

One of my favourite pass-times has become dropping into a local tea & snacks shop to keep my finger on the pulse of issues affecting the people.

And to drop my two rupees worth every now and then …

Communal Clashes in Kandhamal ... tourisms response.

2008-10-15T11:52:00.006+05:30

The southern district of Kandhamal in Orissa is still in the throws of communal violence. The brutalities tap into more socio-economic issues than religion alone and highlight the State Government’s failure to address deep-rooted development and security concerns. For more information about the issues behind the recent events in Kandhamal I suggest the following links:

Battling over Faith
Project Orissa
Kandhamal, terrorism and national integration

Without taking away from the seriousness of the continuing violence in Kandhamal I would like to focus on how these events have affected tourism in Orissa and the reaction of the travel industry.

Naturally reports of communal violence in Kandhamal have a negative impact on the entire state. Travellers planning to visit Orissa are thinking twice. Some are delaying their plans in the hope the situation will regain control, while others are reaching out for advise.

Many travellers and travel companies outside the state rely on the information provided to them by local operators and it is the inherent responsibility of these operators to provide true and honest answers. Unfortunately fear of losing business has clouded the judgment of many operators here.

Local travel companies choosing to turn a blind eye to the events in Kandhamal are putting their own clients and themselves at risk. Not only is it highly irresponsible, but it is unnecessary. There are other alternatives and different approach routes; Kandhamal is one of 30 districts in Orissa. Why push into a region in the grip of such insecurity?

Far from justified, but the simple reason: most of these tour operators do not travel. They are not capable of changing an itinerary in the face of political instability because they are unfamiliar with any other route that deviates from the route they have been travelling for the last 20 odd years.

My only hope is that the unfortunate situation in Kandhamal forces some of the tour operators in Orissa to look outside the box, learn more about the region they wish to promote and diversify their products.

Indian Bureaucracy

2008-09-18T09:16:00.003+05:30

This is my ‘hats off’ to Indian bureaucracy. No matter how infuriating the system may be to weed through you have to hand it to the bureaucrats for being masters of their craft.

Despite the perennial frustration of tiresome queues, shuffling from one department to another, fending off inappropriate questions and dealing with the dummies in the lower ranks it never ceases to amaze me how quickly exasperation is reduced to whimpering gratitude in the presence of the bureaucrat who finally approves your application.

Nothing deflates rage like the polished air of dismissal from the top cat. In the face of misinformation, contempt and a string of other offenses thoughts of retribution vaporize as papers are scrawled with approval. Survival instinct kicks in and your vocabulary is reduced to a simpering “yes sir” “no sir” “thank you sir”. A bureaucrat’s office is not the place to jeopardize chances by voicing grievances!

There is another department for that.

Ancient Wisdom

2008-09-06T16:36:00.004+05:30

One of my favorite travel quotes that never ceases to inspire is as follows:

"There is no happiness for him who does not travel
Thus we have heard. Living in the society of men, the best of men becomes a sinner. Therefore, wander!

The feet of the wanderer are like the flower, his soul is growing and reaping the fruit; and all his sins are destroyed by his fatigues in wandering. Therefore, wander!

The fortune of him who is sitting, sits; it rises when he rises; it sleeps when he sleeps; it moves when he moves. Therefore wander!"

~ Aitareya Brahmana (600 BC)

It is remarkable not only for the truth it speaks but there is every possibility that this is the earliest travel quote in existence (600 BC). There is much to learn from ancient wisdom!

Context is Everything

2008-08-22T13:08:00.005+05:30

Travellers to India are often overwhelmed by the common curiosity of the locals here. You only have to sit down for a cup chai (tea) before being bowled over with questions that in a western context would be considered too personal to ask straight off the bat. After the customary “which country do you belong?” some typical examples are:

“Are you alone?” Indians are no strangers to travel, they often embark on pilgrimages to religious places usually with family or religious groups. Indian culture places great emphasis on the collective and the idea of travelling solo strikes most as incredibly bold!

“Are you married?” And if not why not?! Family is an important part of Indian culture and the idea of travelling without first settling your family life indicates different life values and something most locals struggle to comprehend.

“How many children?” And if you’ve not got around to thinking of family, they will be quick to encourage you don’t waste time on travel and concentrate on building a family. Living without social security, Indians draw much strength from the family unit and part of the idea of having kids is so they at least (because they can be sure the system won’t) will look after them in their old age.

The idea behind all these questions is to understand the context in which one travels.

The other day I visited a local ‘coir’ factory that specialises in processing the husk of coconuts into rope. I asked about the price of the rope and how this is measured. Before I got the answer however I was counter questioned on what I would be using this rope for. Why does this guy need to know whether I am using this rope to gather firewood or string up my underwear?

The same reason the local shopkeeper wants to know what I intend on cooking for today’s lunch when I ask for a measure of lentils; to place things in context. In India people have been cooking using specific lentils for specific dishes for centuries. Recipes are passed through generations. My shopkeeper wants to ensure I don’t make the mistake of cooking with the wrong lentils and getting the texture of the dish wrong.

Similarly the factory hand wants to ensure I have the correct weight and measure of rope for its intended purpose. Questions that might at first appear encroaching or irrelevant are in fact well intentioned. Often the question reveals more about the person asking the questions than the question itself.

The next time you find yourself in the grip of a stranger firing uncomfortable questions, take time to understand why the question is being asked. Try comprehending the intent of what is being asked and remember for each and every perspective there is its equal and opposite.

Behind the string of bizarre and incessant questions lies the key to understanding how you can to fit into a local context and how best you can relate to local people. Once you’ve cracked this code you’ll find your travels enormously rewarding!

Giving Gotipua a Chance

2008-08-16T16:48:00.012+05:30

One of our key activities at Grass Routes is to draw much needed attention and appreciation to neglected folk art and marginalised artisans. Perfect case in point is our support of a Gotipua troupe that continues daily practice despite waning patronage.

Gotipua is a traditional folk art preceding the more acclaimed classical dance form ‘Odissi’. A little known fact is that Odissi’s origins lie in Gotipua, infact many of Odissi’s greatest maestros (namely Guru Pankaj Charan Das, Guru Kelucharan Mohapatra and Guru Deba Prasad Das) began their training in the Gotipua style of dance.

Today Odissi is a thriving dance culture attracting international attention and acclaim. However Gotipua remains largely forgotten. In this context Grass Routes steps into a not so typical rural village where Gotipua dance is part ritual, part marvel.

Students here are initiated in Gotipua firstly by being dedicated to the village temple. During childhood all the dance students would have suffered a life-threatening illness. Their parents would entrust the temple to nurse them to good health and in return the children remain with the temple until adolescence and trained in the art of Gotipua dance.

A unique blend of hand gestures, facial expressions, acrobatic moves and mythological narrative, Gotipua is a dynamic dance form infused with the rigor and innocence of youth. A typical feature of Gotipua is the physical contortions that are only possible pre-adolesence. Not to mention the playful gender bending of boys dressed in female costumes.

Traditional patronage for Gotipua originally came from rich benefaction of the temple. Gotipua’s origins are closely linked with the flourishing temple culture of the 15th century. Today such a system has deteriorated and the maestro and his troupe struggle to continue their daily practice surviving on merge village funds and humble donations.

Grass Routes has a long association with this particular Gotipua village and has seen first-hand the difference a pinch of self-esteem can make.

Gotipua dancers remain on the fringe of mainstream society. Their dedication to the temple sets them apart from their peers with whom they do not mix freely. This distance and the declining socio-economic temple culture contribute to the dancers marginalisation.

During our visits, Grass Routes has witnessed a significant change in the stature of the Gotipua troupe. While the dancers remain for the most part shy boys, they are emboldened by the appreciation they receive from travellers. Their steps take on a significant spring and their dedication a privilege not a curse.

The greatest challenge facing the survival of this ancient dance form is placing it in a modern context. Gotipua troupes training in small hamlets in Orissa need to step out of their villages and participate in the programs outside the traditional realm. No longer can they survive on traditional sources or sadly on local support.

Grass Routes is helping this Gotipua troupe explore alternate avenues for greater exposure. Any suggestions or ideas most welcome at info@grassroutesjourneys.com

Grass Routes & the Responsible Tourism Awards

2008-07-29T12:24:00.003+05:30

Last night the core team of Grass Routes celebrated an important announcement.

Grass Routes has been long listed for the Virgin Holidays Responsible Tourism Awards 2008, founded and organised by online travel directory responsibletravel.com, in association with The Daily Telegraph, World Travel Market and Geographical Magazine.

The Responsible Tourism Awards are the largest of their kind in the world and this year attracted over 1900 nominations from members of the public for over 500 tourism organisations and individuals.

Grass Routes is one of 19 organisations to be listed in the Best of Conservation of Cultural Heritage catergory.

This has come as an awesome surprise for us, as we feel we have only just began our work in this field and have much more work ahead. The nomination encourages us to continue our efforts and draws valuable recognition toward tourisms role in conserving cultural heritage.

Camping

2008-07-17T16:46:00.007+05:30

Camping outdoors, getting ‘back to basics’ and enjoying the raw purity of natural surroundings is one of the best ways to travel. It connects us to nature and allows us to reconnect to the natural cycle of life.

I was introduced to camping by my parents. They would take my sister and I during school holidays to National Parks & Reserves throughout Australia. My father coordinating camping equipment, my mother making provisions for food. It wasn’t long before we operated as a smooth team; pitching the tent and organizing the site in record time.

We would go for walks during the day. Swim in the river or ocean and return to camp at dusk to build a fire, cook diner and share stories until our eyelids drooped. It was during these times that I also learnt something of basic bush survival. Learning to read and understand the environment and respond accordingly.

There was a lapse of camping days during adolescence when camping with my parents wasn’t so cool. I began to camp again in India, when travelling to remote regions. Initially out of necessity as lack of basic infrastructure calls for you to come prepared. But finally I choose to camp from preference.

I enjoy being close to nature and furthermore enjoy the company of people who live close to nature. As much as I like the vibrancy of India’s urban centres, it is in the rural villages & remote regions that I feel a greater sense of calm and connectivity. To nature, her peoples and to myself.

Nature and Wildlife enthusiasts would sympathize with this and are themselves not strangers to camping. Neither are social anthropologists and ethnographers who often camp in remote regions to study ancient cultures.

Our oldest cultures and indigenous peoples inhabit the most remote geographical regions. I am always amazed at the ability of Orissa’s indigenous communities to transform hostile landscapes into fertile settlements. I often camp in these regions as much to appreciate where and how these communities live, as to connect with the people here.

The indigenous communities in Orissa are in step with nature’s cycle and the seasons of harvest. Giving in the to the rhythms of nature can be humbling and challenging. It is this spirit of cooperation that I most admire about Orissa’s indigenous peoples. And what I enjoy most about camping.

Camping is a great leveler. It strips people of their pretenses and allows their soul to breathe.
Camping in groups is also about building teams. Living in close quarters with basic amenities cuts through the formalities of contrived social occasions and hits at the core of who we are. There is nothing like a campfire to unleash the storyteller amongst us!

All Good Adventures Start Here

2008-07-12T22:20:00.001+05:30

I am fortunate. My profession insists I travel. This is not coincidence, but a conscious choice. Travel has been a significant part of my life since I began working in the Indian Subcontinent in 2000.

Travel has been a life affirming experience for me. It has opened my eyes to different ways of living and exposed me to different modes of thought. Travel has enriched my values immeasurably.

But travel is not a one way street. I could not have experienced such incredible insight without the kindness and cooperation of strangers. Gracious hosts, generous guides and affable passers-by extending nonchalant humility to the traveller on the road (or off road as I would have it).

It is often acknowledged that 'the people that make the place'. Travel is no exception. It is through people that we can understand local cultures, economies and the environment they inhabit. People’s narratives are at the heart, the very root of life and form much of our travel experiences.

However these self same people are often taken for granted. The travel industry is no exception. In fact tourism largely exploits people. Big tourism players package whole cultures into bite size commodities for the average consumer. Savvy advertising campaigns sell local cultures by inadvertently perpetuating stereotypes.

Yet within this myriad is a small but significant global movement that is exceptional. One that acknowledges tourism’s potential for facilitating mutual understanding, tolerance and respect. Travel experiences that transcend cultural boundaries and positively impact all sides of the spectrum.

I am part of this change. A vital shift from tourism run by corporations to communities actively engaged in tourism. This is a significant step because now local communities share a stake in the way tourism develops. They also stand to reap its benefits. In Orissa local communities traditionally marginalised by mainstream society (such as artisans and indigenous peoples) are finally receiving recognition for their uniqueness & appreciation for their work, culture & livelihood.

Therein lies the power of travel; the opportunity to exchange ideas and interact with different belief systems thereby enriching lives. It is in essence is why I do what I do and why I travel the way I do. Travel has been incremental in my personal and professional growth. A gift I wish to share and the grounds for this blog.

Off road is where all good adventures start. It is also how I like to travel, preferring to walk, cycle, swim, punt or trek. Off road is also 'off limits', 'off the cuff' and 'off the record'; a chance for me to express my opinion outside of my official website. I intend this blog to be a space for open dialogue, information sharing and reflection. I can't guarantee the shape it will take, but as with all adventures it is the 'journey that matters'. Here we go …